New Plasma Cutter

Just have purchased a LT5000D Lotos Pilot start Plasma cutter from amazon.com. I was impressed with how it cut on the first pass of me trying it. I had also bought a plasma cutting guide from eastwood.com but the cup on the Lotos will not fit in any way into the guides alignment ring. I am building a new ring for the existing guide. Just have started turning the new cup ring. Will post a how to once I finish with the piece and have pics

It is Monday morning and just had an interesting and productive weekend.

Projects: Turn a replacement leg on the duplicator for an antique table, Repair some electronic equipment, specifically a Chavet LED controller board and a hairdryer. Do some alignment and light modifications on my new Micro Mark 16" micro lathe. Start the metal work on the lathe for a Plasma Torch cutting modifications for my new LOTOS LTP5000D IGBT Pilot Arc Plasma Cutter ( More details to follow),  finished and delivered a 1965 Mustang that I had painted about 9 years ago but needed some paint repair work, put together my plasma cutting table and powder coating curing lamp.

The interesting stuff was a look at a 1969 Camaro for a paint restoration, remove the vinyl top and some panel repair. My buddy that I work with on a variety of projects gave me an about 30'-40' vintage Alemite Pump 3 Gallon Grease Can, and two copper soda/acid fire extinguishers for restoration and to sell. Pictures and a detail of the projects to follow.

Check out my website. Still working on the design. Comments welcome

www.docsprojectshop.com

Long Time No Write

I haven't posted anything in a very long time. Sorry about that. Have been extremely busy though. Projects completed or in process:
CNC router completed and several items made. Will write a detailed post later.
3D printer build. Mostly together and still working on zeroing in,
25" Thickness sander items acquired, partially cut out, waiting for some time to complete
Chinking a old long cabin - completed

CNC Machine update

I have the electronics up and running and just about finished with the actual "machine." Will post pics and more information later.

Update

I haven't had the time to post recently. I have been writing for other sites and busy in the shop. I have several projects I am working on and trying to finish. The corvette is coming along. Waiting on some jute underlayment to come in. Hopefully, it will be here by Friday. Also, have all the electronics up and running on the CNC router machine. Have all the pieces cut out and have started assembly. Will have pictures of the process when finished. Also, waiting on skate bearing to come in from California.

How to Build a String Instrument Truss Rod

The truss rod of a guitar is inserted into a channel of the neck under the fretboard. Its purpose is to counteract the stress of the strings and is adjusted to prevent the neck from either bowing or dipping. Bowing causes the strings to be too close to fretboard in the middle of the neck, resulting in string buzz. Dipping lifts the strings too far from the fretboard, making it difficult to play, especially higher up the neck. One of the more common truss rods is the Martin-style, which features a rod inside of an aluminum u-channel and an adjusting nut on the top end.

Step 1

Determine the length of the truss rod for your particular instrument. For most electric guitars, it needs to be around 18" when finished. If the finished truss rod length is 18", cut the aluminum u-channel to 16", and cut the cold roll steel rod to 17 3/4" with the hacksaw. Measure 1/2" from each end of the aluminum u-channel and make a cut 1/8" deep in the open end of the u-channel.

Step 2

Using the motorized grinder, chamfer each end of the steel rod. With the 1/4"-20 die and thread-cutting oil, thread the rod about 2 inches on one end and about 3/4 inch on the other. Back the die off frequently to clear metal shavings. Spin the 1/4"-20 nut onto the short-threaded end of the steel rod until the face of the nut is flush with the end of the steel rod. Using the drill press and the 3/32 inch bit, drill a hole through the nut and rod. Tap the roll pin into the hole.

Step 3

Spin the 1/4"-20 coupler on the long-threaded end of the steel rod. Place the steel rod inside the aluminum u-channel. Bend the 1/2" tabs made on the end of the u-channel over the steel rod with the vise grip pliers. Thread the Allen Head cap bolt into the other end of the coupler.

Step 4

Using the motorized grinding wheel, grind the nut even with the u-channel and grind the coupler nut round and even with the Allen Head cap bolt. Using the straightedge and scratch awl, scribe a mark along the u-channel legs even with the bent-over tabs. Grind the legs almost even with the top of the steel rod. Place masking tape along the open side of the u-channel to prevent epoxy from getting onto the rod. The truss rod is now ready to install into the instrument channel.

Skill

·         Moderately Challenging

Things You'll Need

·         1/4" Cold Roll Steel Rod about 2 feet long

·         3/8" x 3/8" Aluminum U- Channel about 2 feet long

·         1/4" - 20 Coupler Nut

·         1/4" - 20 Nut

·         1/4" - 20 3/8" long Allen Head Cap Bolt

·         1/4" - 20 Die with Die Holder

·         Thread Cutting Oil

·         Hacksaw

·         Vise Grip Pliers

·         3/32" x 3/4" roll pin

·         3/32" Drill Bit

·         Drill Press

·         Motorized Grinding Wheel

·         Straightedge

·         Scratch Awl

·         Masking Tape

·         Safety Glasses

·         Gloves

Warnings

·         Always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with and grinding metal.

Keywords

·         Guitar

·         Truss Rod

·         Homemade

Reference

·         "Make Your Own Electric Guitar"; Melvyn Hiscock and Brian May; 2003

Resource

·         Stewart MacDonald Guitar Making Parts and Supplies [http://www.stewmac.com/]

·         Musical Instrument Makers Forum [http://www.mimf.com/]

Cheap Hanging Hooks

When doing projects, particularly painting project, one always needs hooks to hang items on to paint. It always seems you can never have enough of these hooks and they need to be strong to hold sometimes heavy items for painting or drying after cleaning. I have found that I can have an almost endless supply of hooks that can be custom made to hold almost any item. I use insulation supports, sometimes called "catspaws." They are available from most building supply stores in 16" and 24" OC varieties and run between $12-15. There are 100 pieces in the box and they are made from 14 gauge steel wire that is strong. I generally bend them with a squared-off hook on one end and a straight hook on the other. The squared-off hook works well on my hanging stand I use to paint and powder-coat. The stand is made from 1" square tube steel,